Perhaps I should add waves to currents. A guy was killed by a wave today at Labenne. Whiplash according to the Gendarmes. Not much swell and he was in the safe area, very unfortunate.
Getting out is easy enough as you just duck-dive under the waves but getting back in it's easy to get tumbled. Getting back onto the beach can also be a headache when waves are dumping against steep sand. People put their feet down too early and get dragged out again by the water rushing out after each wave.